Lens clean and clear? Slight yellow cast is OK, that's the coatings. Set aperture to 1.7, front ring on lens to B, look through the lens in bright light, direct sunlight is best, press and hold the shutter release. As you move the film advance letter do you hear a sound? At the start of the advance stroke, do you hear a "clunk" or "thump"? Or is it pretty quiet, just gears turning inside, like most cameras? The "clunk" sound is GOOD! If no clunk, then you have a "Pad of Death" a.k.a. Smooth? Are things moving properly on the right hand side inside the back? OK, close back of camera. Fire shutter and wind film advance several times. Blades disappear at f/1.7, blades make a perfect pentagon about 3mm wide at f/16. Move the aperture ring from one limit to the other. Look into the back of the camera at the back of the lens. Do you hear a click? Do you see a flash of light through the lens? In this camera, shutter fires at 1/500th with no battery. Point at something bright, look through the back, push the shutter release. Pull up the rewind knob to open the back of the camera. Please comment or add additional tests that any lay person can do.ġ.
Repair manual yashica electro 35 gx how to#
Here's what I've found so far about how to test a Yashica Electro. In one case, I have a camera which gives a satisfying "click" but the shutter blades do not move! In another, the auto-exposure works for all stops except f/16 where it gives super long exposures in any lighting. Why is this a problem? After buying three Electros, each for very small dollars, I can see some quirks that make it difficult for the buyer and/or the seller to know whether the camera is "working." For example, even with dead internal wiring and electronics, the shutter will still fire. And help sellers to be able to represent more accurately their cameras. I hope this will help buyers know what to look for. My intent here is document how to test a Yashica Electro. These can be quality cameras, but condition varies. Thanks to Jeremy for the advice about the spring or various other metals.How can a lay person, not a camera expert, know whether a Yashica Electro is working or not.
Thanks Roger and Donnie - it is good to know that the alkaline batteries are an option and that the camera will opperate with batteries of a wide range of voltages. Unfortunately I cannot play with the camera until the weekend.
Repair manual yashica electro 35 gx plus#
The advantage with the lithium battery is that it fits with minimal adjustment (it might need a shim so it is a snug fit) plus the spring to complete the circuit. I was trying to avoid the alkaline batteries because of their short life and the varying voltage the produce over their lifetime. Maybe a spring from a pen will suffice (?).
I suppose I can use a spring (as Jeremy suggests) in the second battery slot to complete the circuit. The battery seems to neatly fit into one of the two battery 'slots' in the base of the camera (but curiously not into the other - I think the battery compartment has seen some wear and tear over the years). They make the point that the battery is long life and this is supported by a 2016 use by date! The lithium battery is a 'Photo Lithium' three volt Sanyo CR-1/3N.
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